Thursday, February 18, 2010

Learning to Surf


It is quite fun that when one takes on the position of being a learner, you receive all sorts of advice. Some of our peers who actually ride a board were very generous with their time and gave us a lot of assistance.

We quickly discovered a few things about surfing though.

1. It is very tiring and takes a lot of energy, especially when the surf is reasonably big.

2. Getting on the right spot on the board is very important. Each of us managed to be too far forward and nosedives and then wipeouts were the order of the day and quite spectacular.

3. Board riding is a lot more fun with a few blokes than being alone. Having encouragement and support from others helps.

4. It is very different to body-boarding or bodysurfing. In those exploits riding down the wave is the first step. In surfing, once on a wave, one has to jump up rather than focus on riding down the unbroken wave.

5. Riding a board is a skill that is very slow to learn. It took a couple of days before any of us started to look like actually standing.

These lessons were good to learn - though our progress was slow at first due to having just the one board and three aspiring riders.

More was ahead of us.

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